Paul DarvasiOur first day in the Galapagos Islands is sunny and warm, a welcome and anticipated change from the gray drizzle of Quito. Travel-numb and sleep deprived, we cast our eyes about the small airport in search of our Marine Expeditions contact. Not to worry, Paul finds us in no time (he later claims to enjoy great success in picking out the Marine Expeditions people from the crowd).

Shimmery IslandA small bus soon transports us to dockside, where we get our first glimpses of some of the species we have come to see; boobies, frigate birds and pelicans in particular are diving, soaring or just hanging out on the pier. In short order we board the traditional panga—a flat-bottomed outboard-driven dinghy that seats about twelve people—for the ride to the ship which is at anchor well out from shore. Exiting the panga onto the fragile-looking but sturdy staircase descending from amidships proves an awkward but manageable maneuver, and one we would master in the days to come.